A quiet force to be reckoned with

After riding the subways in Korea, I can confidently say that most Koreans have no problem pushing or shoving someone out of their way. While their demeanor at first seems quiet and low key, it doesn’t fully represent their other dominant abilities. Imagine standing on line waiting to place your order and having someone else jump in front of you right as you approach the counter. Or imagine trying to walk down the street but being blocked by couples or friends just holding hands. Walking down the streets in Korea is much hard then the busy streets of New York.

During class I learned that Korea was ranked number 14 in world nations. That’s surprisingly high for a country that should still be recovering from its battles with North Korea. From a ground level view, the economy in Korea looks good and the Korean businesses seem to be maintaining if not exceeding its growth and wealth. Many claim that the U.S. financial crisis has had an impact across the globe but I don’t see it here. Korea as well as many other nations may seem to be quietly or slowly growing. But with the current financial crisis in the U.S. , be assured they are moving faster than anticipated!

Quiet but a force to be reckoned with!

Karen Nazaire

Americans Abroad

Aren't lawyers supposed to obey rules?

Seriously, our group had a great time in Beijing, and we are enjoying our last week in Korea now--including a tour of the DMZ on Tuesday June 20. The weather and visibility were not so good for that, but it was still an electric experience to be right there at the border and to sense the tension.

Greg Bowman

The Wonderful World of China.......

What can I say about our trip to Beijing, China. Although we were only there for 3 1/2 days, it was the most exciting and exhilarating 3 1/2 days. Having always wanted to visit China, i was thrilled once we arrived at Beijing international airport. One thing i noticed which was different from Korea was, that in China our temperature was tested while we were on the plane, instead of when we got out. I am not sure if it's because China is just more cautions but that really took me off guard. Our first day in China we visited the Great Wall...all I can say is WOW! It was such a wonderful experience, even better than i ever imagined. Before visiting China, i had seen pictures of the Great Wall, however,nothing prepared me for how immense it really is. We climbed part of the wall and there was still miles and miles that i would never get to. First of all, when they say climbing the wall..it literally means climbing the wall. By the time me and me and my class mate got to one of the highest peaks, we were drenched in sweat and our legs were shaking. The steps not only are high but they are steep as well. I could only imagine this was the part of the wall that has been restored, i could never climb the parts which are not. That night we decided to visit Tienanmen square, we got there kinda late and ended up getting seperated from some of the group. However, maybe 30 mins later while trying to go towards Mao Zedong's tomb..we were told by the police to leave the square. It was kinda of weird but i was able to take some good pictures of the square which is huge and supposeldy can hold up to 1/2 a million people. The following day some of the groups seperated, me and my two other classmates decided to visit the Olympic stadium, Forbidden City and the temple of Heaven. The Olympic stadium was also located right next to the Cube which hosted the swimming events in the Olympics. It was surreal to be standing at the same place where the World's greatest athletes competed just a year ago. Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven were both very beautiful and majestic in their architectures. The Temple of Heaven especially was so beautiful and peaceful, the scenery near the temple was very breath taking. Overall, i had a great time in Beijing and would definitely visit again in a heartbeat. I heart Beijing!!!!

Cecilia A. Ndounda

My List of Things not to be “messed with” keeps getting longer . . .

Texas? Check. China? You better believe it.

We were told that trying to fully explore Beijing in only three full days would be nearly impossible. Turns out, “they” were right, but we tried hard anyways. If there is any one lesson to learn from China, it would be not to underestimate it in any way.

From the 100 degree heat we found on our arrival (at 8pm) to the intense smog and air pollution, and from the total lack of personal space the culture warmly embraces (pun intended) to the People’s Republic’s odd love of Chairman Mao Zedong—China is an “in your face,” pushy, and, after hours of climbing the Great Wall and trudging through ancient palaces, an exhausting nation. I loved every minute.

We started the trip at the Great Wall. Led by our fearless leader Professor Bowman (read: Greg “Thor” Bowman), we woke up early and quickly learned the three hours we allotted to explore at the site was not long enough to see the entire Wall. My touristy (it’s a word, look it up) American genes kicked in full-blast, and I was quickly taking pictures of every mountain top, wall fragment, oddly shaped rock, or attractive Bulgarian woman that came my way. Our group eventually split into smaller groups, and I ended up making most of the climb with Adrian “The Great Wall should sell cigarettes” Westbrook. We had a great time, although my ego took a huge hit when our many photo-ops started allowing people several times our age to pass us. But, hey, I took some great pictures and (eventually) completed the trek to the top.

Although we saw several traditional and ancient Chinese palaces, my other favorite site was Tiananmen Square. It is really an odd feeling to stand in a place where so many seeking a government reform to democracy have protested. Overlooking the entire square is Chairman Mao’s portrait—an enduring testament to communism and the government’s hard-line rule of all 1.3 billion Chinese citizens?). Twice daily his body is raised from a refrigerated coffin for a public viewing (can you imagine if we did that sort of thing with our presidents?). Seven of us tried to join the incredibly long line (the line for Space Mountain has nothing on this), but the guards found reasons to kick us out (wearing sandals, carrying bags, etc). Even the mood on the square feels tense—the many guards are constantly watching for signs of protest or unrest.

The giant Mao photo and overall spectacle (you better believe his image is all over plaques, watches, party platform books, etc for souvenir purchase) greatly impressed on me how much we Americans take for granted the peaceful transfer of government power in the United States. On January 20 George Bush quietly and gracefully boarded a helicopter and left D.C. for Texas. No riots, no drama, no unrest in the slightest. Despite the millions of voters who cast their ballots for another candidate, the entire nation warmly greeted a new leader. No one would suggest we post W’s portrait all over the National Mall as a nostalgic reminder of his command. The Chinese are not so lucky—this one man’s presence is everywhere. He and the modern day remains of his party are inescapable (the government even went so far as to block access to both Twitter and Facebook during the Tiananmen Square twentieth anniversary).

And now a word on (authentic) Chinese food. . .

Before I write a novel on the pitfalls of communism above, I’ll move along. I’m a huge fan of trying new foods. The more exotic the dish, the better (at least initially) in my book. Throughout Japan and Seoul, this mantra worked surprisingly well. One night we even played “food roulette” with a menu written only in Hangul with no corresponding pictures (I got the equivalent of a vegetable omelet, Keith got fried chicken liver, and Juan got the hottest chicken he had ever eaten).

So, my American appetite and I decide to take on China. Bad idea. The second night’s dinner consisted of an appetizer of jelly fish heads served cold, pork lung served extra spicy, and fried chicken with peppers as an entrée. Yes, I voluntarily chose those meals. Failure, failure, failure. The jelly fish head tasted like cold gristle in soy sauce while the fried chicken dish looked like the entire chicken was placed in a blender for chopping—different sized bone fragments made it intolerable (including one piece shaped like a beak, needless to say I psyched myself out).

Nothing, however, compares to the next day’s lunch. Following dinner (or lack thereof) from the night before, I decided to go the safe route for lunch and order pork. I’m thinking to myself, “Pork is a Chinese culinary staple—it has to be good, right?” Wrong. Although it had a few chunks of meat, it was mostly boiled skin. Think pork rind soup. Bleh. I’ll stick to my favorite Mississippi all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets in the future. Lesson learned.


Matt Harris

Blog Post 6.16.2009

Fresh off a visit from three U.S. Army attorneys, and in my attempt at a thematic approach to blogging, I thought a post about South Korea and its surging growth following the Cold War would be appropriate.

Unfortunately, it seems like the Korean War is one of America’s least remembered war. While it symbolizes a proxy to the Cold War, much like the Vietnam War, its significance is seemingly less celebrated by Americans than the latter “proxy” war. Personally, I think it’s interesting to know the effects that these “proxy wars” had on the host nation, if you will. The South Koreans apparently lost 25 percent of their population in the affair, and likely much of its infrastructure, architecture and buildings were lost in the conflict. And since the war isn’t technically over, the South Koreans also stand to lose substantially more. However, this seems like the proper place to note that the South Koreans have “bounced back” with gusto.The amount you can do with a cell phone is amazing and South Korea seems to be firing the first shots continually in the “digital revolution.” This all done within miles of an outwardly-agressive communist regime. And with what I like to call the “World is Flat” phenomenon, in the future, if hostilities were to erupt, the world itself also stands to lose a strong – and stable - trading partner.

I think it’s also interesting to note the emblematic and stark economic prosperity that South Korea has benefited from after the end of the Cold War. It is not unlike that of Argentina (despite its economic collapse) or India, which both likely benefited from the end of this passive conflict, even though neither was near a warzone during the Cold War. Unlike Argentina or India, however, South Korea has already made the significant jump into the digital age and also seems to have a substantial industrial sector, which is something that should be mentioned when discussing the modern developing nations. In total, the stability proffered by trade relations and provided by the end of the Cold War was something that likely also benefited South Korea as well.

As a final point, it’s worth noting that South Korea seems to have benefited politically as well during this period, a juxtaposition that likely is more related than not. In 1987, they had what has been called their first Democratic election since 1971, and this ushered in what the modern world knows as South Korea.

On a personal note, one of our housemates has a grandfather who fought in the Korean War and said that only recently has he begun talking about it. In contrast, I’m sure my own grandfather had some salient and charged things to say about the war, being a lieutenant colonel in the Air Force, but he despised talking about his time in the armed forces.

Later in the week we will be visiting the Korean War Memorial, so that will provide some nice fodder for future blog posts and I will reserve another day’s post for the influence of North Korea and its own aggressive-styled diplomacy.

Chris Gilfillan

Blog 6.21.2009.

After a hectic day that included rushing to planes, running up the quarter-mile hill of Sookmyung, we woke up to our first day on Jeju-do, the island furtherest south in South Korea and one which was billed as South Korea’s tropical paradise.

One of the main attractions of Jeju arethe domant volcanos located on the island. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage site long ago, the largest of the volcanoes is Mt. Halla or Hallasan. And being a moderate hiker – and one which will not miss the opportunity when approached with it – I found myself at the foot of a 9.6 kilometer mountain with an elevation change of nearly 1000 kilomters. According to Frommer’s Guide to South Korea, Mt. Halla – not to be confused with Val Hala – rises 1,950 meters in the air, is the highest peak in South Korea and, because of the clouds, is like a woman, constantly hiding her face. Looking at the topography of the mountain, and hiking the Sonpanak Trail, it was like I went from a subtropical climate to an arctic climate, all in one day’s hike.

Not having much sleep, I was a bit delirious – and probably a lot forgetful – when I started the climb. I bought a raincoat (the cloud cover made it seem like it was raining) and some water for the trip. The plastic from the raincoat insulated the amount of heat from perspiration, and I’m sure by the time I got to the top I reaked of sweat and mud.

I suppose I should start with the Quentin Tarantino quote: “These are your mountain climbing days.” I think that’s relatively poignant. And climbing the mountain, it seemed highly appropriate. Secondarily, I found out that South Koreans are much faster going down than they are going up. While going up through the mountain – absent-mindedly forgetting my camera batteries – I passed people left and right. I wasn’t rushing, but I wanted to make good pace. However, by making such good pace, I scurried right by the food counter, and when I got to the top, I noticed everyone else was eating. Jealous, I looked around on top and found several bathrooms, but alas, no food.

Famished, I took a nap at the top. And the mountain lived up to its precocious and conservative nature – there was a cloud that continually covered the beautiful crater lake that was created by the remaining volcano. Feeling close to normal, but still very hungry, I stomped back down the mountain – making sure to cheer some of the other hikers on. I imagined myself, an hour ago, climbing there, tugging on the handrails to use my arms for climbing. There was a remarkable number of South Koreans climbing, but I also saw two Americans who were very close to the summit – they seemed relieved to know that they were very close, and I’m sure they planned better than I had and packed a lunch.

Sucking up the hunger, I felt my legs beginning to waver in strength around one kilomter down the mountain, I started paying attention to the emergency location signs – never a good sign. By Emergency Sign 38 (there were 43) I wanted to rest again, and found a grassy knoll off the beaten path. So I jumped off the trail, rested my head on a soft patch of a grass and passed out for about an hour.

When I woke up around 1 p.m. I knew I needed to eat. Luckily – like a prayer answered – there was an UNESCO tourist information booth that sold Cup of Noodles and Moon Pies. One cup and four moon pies later, I was back on my way – feeling kind of satisfied, and not nearly as war-torn. On ordering my fourth moon pie, though, I did receive it with a raised eyebrow and a furrowed brow from the salesman – like he was silently laughing at the future that lay in store for me.

I made it back down the mountain at a much slower pace than the well-packed Koreans, though. I happened to be wearing a pair of Sperry’s for the climb, which would be like bringing a samurai sword to a gunfight or like repeling K2 with a string of dental floss – things that were possible but only with some help from Maguyver.

With about one kilometer to go down the mountain, I finally knew what that Moon Pie salesman was laughing at – I had the worst case of heartburn in my life. But I trudged through, and saw a few deer grazing prior to leaving the jungle portion of my journey.

To say the least, after that long climb, I could die without seeing another stone staircase. But, like Tarantino said, these are my mountain climbing days – and really, the only way up is to climb.

-Christopher L. Gilfillan

China

With a passive whir the escalators in the Seoul Airport welcomed us back. After five days in China, I think it should be noted the differences we all noted between the Chinese and the Korean people – and as noted earlier, one of the starkest examples is the noise. China was loud, vibrant and piercing. South Korea is quiet, colorful and sympathetic. So, it is relatively nice to be back in Seoul, so that your ears aren’t so full.

Dealing with the salesman at the Pearl Market also presented another change. The Chinese there, like in many markets, were pushy and moderately obnoxious. The Koreans, even the ones attempting to sell something to a trapped tourist on Jeju Island or at a Korean Folk Village, were accepting and polite about the haggling and bargaining process. Enjoying the bargaining process myself, I better understood what the Chinese were after, but I felt better about my purchases in Korea. The adjective most used on this trip to describe the Chinese has been aggressive, and the salespeople were no different.

Finally, with a wink and a nod to Cecilia, Beijing is quite dirty and the air cannot possibly be healthy. In fact, as this blogger notes : http://www.pyongyangsquare.com/beijingair/, the air quality in Beijing is in fact the worst in the world – by a landslide. We experienced the poor air and physically we could tell the difference in our lungs when we arrived back in Seoul. There was also a real grit to everything in China, which was moderately disconcerting. On the other hand, the Koreans seem to be very clean – despite never being able to find a trash can, the streets are free from litter and on the whole highly pleasant to walk on.

Chris Gilfillan

6.29.2009